Vintage Valuation is a regular column from The Moodie Davitt Report, in which we assess airport wine stores around the world. In each edition we rate the wine offer, merchandising and service by a number of key criteria, including:
- Size, depth, excitement of assortment: Is there a diversity of countries, regions, styles and varietals?
- Are (where applicable) the wines of the region or country well represented (where a store is located in a non wine-producing country, we will reallocate these points) – 20 points
- Price range and value: Is there a balance of price-points, from entry and mid-price level to the high-end?
- Is pricing competitive with the local market? – 15 points
- Is there innovation in the offer? Points of difference? Exclusives? – 15 points
- Is there an effort to engage the consumer via tastings and other promotions? – 15 points
- Do the staff display enthusiasm and knowledge in selling? – 15 points
- Overall impression: Does the merchandising, design and ranging create a true “wine experience”? – 20 points
Airport: Bangkok Suvarnabhumi International Airport
Retailer: King Power International
Summary: King Power Duty Free presents a bright and open area dedicated to wine within the main liquor and tobacco store.
First impressions present a sparkling, bright area with contrasting coloured floor tiles. Spirits are surrounded by darker hues leading through to lighter, mixed textures and tones in the wine area. The extensive fine wine offer is displayed in high-quality marbled surrounds.
A helpful list of duty free allowances is displayed for a range of destinations served by Suvarnabhumi.
As we look for our favourites we immediately find Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2016, a long-time benchmark for the varietal from Marlborough, New Zealand priced at THB1,300 (US$40). Cloudy Bay sits alongside plenty of well-known Sauvignon Blanc alternatives from New Zealand such as Sileni Cellar Selection at THB650 (US$19.90) and Oyster Bay at THB950 (US$29).
King Power boasts an extensive array of New World wines, including a well- rated Kaiken Ultra Chardonnay 2013 from Mendoza, Argentina selling at THB950 (US$29). From South African golfer Ernie Els’s estate, the Ernie Els Signature in its fantastic gift boxing is one for a special occasion at THB3,400 (US$100).
A selection of bold Australian reds, notably St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, continues the New World flag bearing, though we noticed a number of wines not priced, which hardly helps conversion.
Sometimes the adjacencies surprise. For example, some of the most exclusive wines from Penfolds – one of Australia’s and the world’s top wineries – are placed within the mainstream offer. The superb Penfolds Grange Bin 95 2007 priced at THB24,500 (US$736) is presented in a gift box alongside an extensive range of Treasury Wine Estates brands, including more moderately priced Wolf Blass.
An excellent selection is offered from California with some quality entry-level wines such as Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc, for example, at THB1,250 (US$38.93) and Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi Zinfandel 2014 (THB550/ US$17.13).
Some repetition with the fine wines selection including Napa Valley’s Opus One 2013 and Dominus Estate and Penfolds perhaps makes it easier for some travellers to find particular wines they are looking for. The area also features a very strong range of Chilean wines.
In summary, King Power displays a strong New World wine selection focusing on Australian and New Zealand wines with some South African mentions. The New World offer is nicely rounded off with some excellent Argentinean, Chilean and Californian wines. The section would however benefit from clearer signage as it is not denoted as New World wines.
And so, to the old world…
Fine wine treasure chest
The fine wine section, labelled as such, offers an extensive range that helpfully features a score from renowned wine authority Robert Parker alongside each vintage (Parker Points). The store boasts eight vintages from the rare and exclusive Pétrus, including two magnums. The most expensive is the 2002 Pétrus magnum at THB250,000 (US$7,662) with a score of no less than 100 Parker Points.
Several vintages of Premier Grand Cru Classé Château Cheval Blanc feature, ranging from THB33,000 (US$1,028) for the 1998 to THB59,000 (US$1,838) for the 2010. A fantastic range of the great Premier Cru Supérieur Château d’Yquem, the world’s pre-eminent Sauternes, embraces eight different vintages from the 1988 at THB37,500 (US$1,168) through to the 2007 vintage at THB25,000 (US$766) – both 99 pointers.
Other renowned names include California’s Screaming Eagle and Opus One’s 2013 vintage 100 pointer (by wine expert James Suckling) at THB11,900 (US$370.60), and Italy’s Masseto. A selection of superb 100 Parker point wines includes the Château Mouton Rothschild 1982
(THB110,000/US$3,426) and 1986 (THB59,900/US$1,866); Lafite Rothschild 2003 (THB49,900/ US$1,526); Château Haut-Brion 2009 (THB63,000/US$1,962); and Dominus Estate 2013 at THB15,500 (US$483) which also scored 100 with Suckling.
Several attractive gondolas, nicely-lit with a marble finish, feature tailored ranges or special offers. Bordeaux takes centre stage on one such display, with the excellent Grand Cru class Duhart-Milon Rothschild 2013 (THB5,800/US$181), and one of my personal favourites, the Château Lagrange 2005 (THB4,000/US$125) and 2013 (THB1,990/US$62) vintages alongside one another.
Other top-class Bordeaux include Château Kirwan 2012 and Château Smith Haut-Lafitte 2014, a Grand Cru Classé at THB4,500 (US$140). For the wine aficionado this is shopping nirvana.
The ready to drink Château d’Issan 2012 Bordeaux at THB2,890/US$90 (95 Parker points) and the 2013 vintage of the same wine at THB1,990 (US$62) mark the first special offers on display. King Power also offers good deals on Château Croizet-Bages 2013 (THB1,590/US$50) and Château Du Tertre 2013 at THB1,390 (US$43). A selection of Grand Cru Classé wines and some outstanding French and Italian wines sit within the fine wine section.
Vintages from 1993 all the way to 2014 (THB15,000/US$467- 19,500/US$607) of Château Angélus, one of the largest and most prestigious St-Emilion estates and a Premier Grand Cru Classé, feature strongly. The ‘super Tuscan’ Sassicaia is well-priced at THB7,900 (US$246).
While the Amarone offer excludes the benchmark Masi label, it does include the Tommasi Amarone 2013 at THB2,990 (US$93). Allegrini’s 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico and Bottega’s Amarone della Valpolicella at THB2,300 (US$72) are present in this selection.
But I don’t like seeing such outstanding wines displayed standing up. The reason, as any serious wine drinker will tell you, is that if the cork starts to dry out, it will let air inside, causing premature oxidation. Any fine wine buyer unsure of the stock turn in a duty free shop is likely to have concerns over the state of wine displayed vertically.
Displayed behind glass, King Power has secured some fantastic wines including Château Lynch Bages vintages from 2005 to 2014; Château Palmer 2004 to 2014; and Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2000/2009/2010 /2013 and 2014; as well as some great magnums. A range of vintages from Château Mouton Rothschild, Pétrus, Romanée Conti, Richebourg, Screaming Eagle, Masseto, Margaux are all displayed carefully (and correctly) on their sides.
Surprisingly, perhaps reflecting the sweet-toothed palate of many Asian travellers, the store has a strong collection of sweet wines. Sauternes, sparkling sweet wine, ice wine and Oak Age Vidal ice wine all feature. The Champagne offer is limited, but it does include Dom Pérignon (THB5,950/ US$185), Krug (THB7,200/US$224) and a range of vintage/non-vintage and the wonderful destination Veuve Clicquot wines – offering, in our opinion, some of the best and most distinctive packaging in the travel retail drinks category.
CONCLUSION
Pluses: The wine offer at Suvarnabhumi Airport has been carefully selected and curated. The New World selection is diverse in range, country of origin and price- point. The assortment clearly signifies a strong market for fine wine and the retailer deserves recognition for the care and respect with which it has treated those wines.
A detailed price list for fine wines and prominently displayed duty free allowances by country are other pluses. The store is not high on atmosphere but the space is wide, open and bright.
Minuses: The generally outstanding quality of the range is not matched by the ‘bottles on shelves’ merchandising that dominates. Most of the wines are displayed standing up, which will sow doubts in the minds of discerning wine buyers. I studied the fine wine selection for some time but was not approached by any staff member. This could so easily be a less sterile, more engaging area. The retailer’s obvious commitment to fine wine deserves it.
OVERALL VINTAGE VALUATION RATING (OUT OF 100): 70
PREVIOUS VINTAGE VALUATIONS:
Dubai Duty Free, Dubai International Airport Terminal 3 (Departures) – 70/100
Aelia Duty Free, Nice Côte d’Azur Airport – 90/100
World Duty Free London Heathrow Airport Terminal 3 – 51/100
A VENETIAN AMBASSADOR Masi has always been an ambassador for the values of the Venetian Regions. Its story began in 1772, when the Boscaini family, now in its seventh generation, bought prestigious vineyards in the “Vaio dei Masi”, in the heart of the Valpolicella Classica zone. With Masi Historic Venetian Estates, the Boscaini family sanctions its work in promoting the cultural traditions of “territories of excellence” through single vineyard wines (crus) and historic noble estates. In Valpolicella, Masi collaborates with the Conti Serego Alighieri family, descendants of the poet Dante, owners of the estate since 1353, and in Rovereto it collaborates with the Conti Bossi Fedrigotti family, a prestigious aristocratic estate since 1697. Cantina Privata Boscaini is made up of precious cru selections and great vintages of Amarone, produced in limited quantities and only when nature is at her most munificent. A family inheritance, to be conserved with the maximum care and shared with the best friends and closest wine passionates. World leaders in the production of Amarone Classico, Masi has developed recognised expertise in the Appassimento technique through its Technical Group. The technique dates back to the ancient Romans and involves leaving grapes to dry on bamboo racks for the winter months to concentrate aromas and flavours in the resulting wine. And an aptitude for innovation has resulted in the production of the widest and most expertly made range of Amaroni, Recioti and Double Fermentation wines – which together form Masi’s calling card in the world. |
