Interview: Provenance and the personal touch as DFS raises the bar at Masters of Wines and Spirits

True discovery is a rare experience. A unique and individual journey, inspired by our legacy of adventure. We invite you to explore the exceptional and unexpected, and experience the legacy of generations. A global selection with a personal touch, transforming your world with the best DFS has to offer.

– Manifesto, DFS Masters of Wines and Spirits

DFS Group made a powerful statement of its luxury retail credentials last weekend, when it celebrated its eighth annual Masters of Wines and Spirits event at Singapore’s Infinite Studios. Home to two sound stages and the country’s first 4K Virtual Studio, the expansive complex was a fitting venue for this year’s event, which featured eye-catching video art installations and engaging digital projections – a “more interactive and digitally-focused form of storytelling”, according to DFS Group Senior Vice President Spirits, Wines, Tobacco, Food and Gifts Brooke Supernaw.

“Every product is individually discussed, selected and in many cases designed collaboratively with our brands to ensure that it not only meets but really exceeds our customers’ expectations,” said DFS Group Senior Vice President Wines, Spirits, Tobacco, Food and Gifts Brooke Supernaw, the Master of Curation at Masters of Wines and Spirits.

Speaking to The Moodie Davitt Report* at the event, Supernaw said she was “blown away” by the “rawness” of the space, which reflected a certain “rough luxury”. It proved to be an ideal blank canvas for creating an immersive journey of discovery for the more than 1,000 guests who attended the event.

“The setup also really let the products be the heroes, allowing them to shine, while giving our guests the chance to interact with the brand ambassadors in this nice, spread-out space,” she added.

The unpretentious, expansive space at Infinite Studios gave emphasis to the stellar products, clear brand storytelling and intimate interactions with the ambassadors.

Since its inception in 2011, the event has been held at several outstanding locations in Singapore, including the National Museum, a colonial black and white house and the historic Tras Street, each offering a different experience. But at the heart of every edition is the finely curated selection of the world’s rarest and finest wines and spirits and the masters behind them.

This year’s event, themed ‘Masters at Work’, saw these masters taking centre stage as DFS paid tribute to six experts “whose passionate commitment to their task continues to raise the bar for all others in the field”, said DFS.

“The DFS Masters Series, our signature programme of exhibitions around the world, is really about celebrating those masters in the industry and the art and craftsmanship of what they are bringing to life at these events,” said Supernaw.

The masters behind the masterpieces take the spotlight: DFS Group Vice President Corporate Communications & CSR Jay Frame (fourth from left) with the six masters, (left to right) DFS Group Senior Vice President Wines, Spirits, Tobacco, Food and Gifts Brooke Supernaw as Master of Curation; Diageo Global Whisky Master Ewan Gunn as Master of Whisky; The Macallan Whisky Maker Sarah Burgess as Master of Malt; founder of music collective Yeti Out DJ Arthur Bray as Master of Music; Château Lafite Rothschild International Brand Ambassador Fabrice Papin as Master of Wine; and award-winning Japanese mixologist Hidetsugu Ueno as Master of Cocktails.

“So with ‘Masters at Work’, we are highlighting the different châteaux, distilleries and arts at Masters of Wines and Spirits, and really showcasing how it all blends together to create this night of celebration. So outside of the wines and spirits, we have the Master of Music (DJ Arthur Bray) and the Master of Cocktails (Hidetsugu Ueno of Bar High Five), which pair beautifully with the Master of Whisky (Ewan Gunn of Diageo), Master of Wine (Fabrice Papin of Château Lafite Rothschild) and Master of Malt (Sarah Burgess of The Macallan). On top of that, we couldn’t have the event without the products, and that’s where the Master of Curation (Supernaw herself) comes in – discovering, selecting and curating the best-of-the-best assortment that is brought to life here,” she said.

This year’s collection featured 140 rare and fine whiskies, wines, Cognacs and Champagnes from 60 of the world’s leading drinks houses. It is a global selection, but DFS has also delivered on its promise of “a personal touch”, as outlined in its manifesto.

Supernaw explained: “The products are personally selected by myself and our merchant team. It means that the team is going out there and travelling to Scotland, Cognac, Bordeaux and Napa to select the products alongside the master distillers and winemakers, and making sure that each product fits the profile, expectations and quality that we want to deliver at Masters of Wines and Spirits.

“This year we have 13 single casks from a wide range of distilleries – actual casks that were 100% bottled for DFS. That’s what we mean by the personal touch. Every product is individually discussed, selected and in many cases designed collaboratively with our brands to ensure that it not only meets but really exceeds our customers’ expectations. And it is harder and harder every year because every year we raise the bar.”

A familiar name at the Masters of Wines and Spirits is The Dalmore, which presented the limited-edition 45yo (above), available for sale for the first time; and The Dalmore Constellation Vintage 1973 Drinking Cabinet (below), a bespoke and handcrafted cabinet commissioned by Richard Paterson, containing The Constellation Vintage 1973 (cask no.10).

Guests not only got to admire and purchase the Champagne collection on display, they could also sample brands such as Dom Pérignon and Rare Champagne.

That bar reached new heights this year with a number of standout pieces in the collection, which has also expanded due to demand.

“A trend that we are seeing lately is that people are more conscious of what they are putting in their bodies, so they want to drink less but better. It’s really about quality over quantity. We have not only selected some of the best châteaux and distilleries but we have also identified some smaller, ‘boutique-y’ distilleries and introduced collections that were developed and cherry-picked from various distilleries and put together,” she said.

Single malts continued to dominate, with the category appealing to both connoisseurs and people who want to learn more about spirits and whiskies, Supernaw noted.

“One that stands out is the Karuizawa Single Cask 1995 from Japan. It’s a closed Japanese distillery and we have one of the last – if not the last – barrels that was ever produced, and it’s been bottled specifically for DFS.” Distilled a few years before the closing of the famed Karuizawa Distillery, this whisky was matured for 23 years in a Japanese red wine cask made from French oak, giving it a dark amber tone.

The Karuizawa Single Cask 1995 offers the chance to own a piece of “Japanese liquid history” from a silent distillery.
Single malt whiskies continued to anchor the collection, with several standout examples such as Ardbeg 33yo (above) and other noteworthy names below.
Specially created for DFS, the Artist Collective set comprising Craigellachie 10yo, Ben Nevis 7yo, Glen Grant 23yo, Bunnahabhain 11yo, Ledaig 11yo and Linkwood 21yo.
The Bunnahabhain 39yo Spanish Octave Finish, an exclusive limited edition from the new Bunnahabhain Element Series.
The Glenfiddich 45yo, an exclusive blend for DFS Masters of Wines and Spirits.
Caol Ila 35yo, a rare distillery release that is exclusive to DFS.

Japanese whiskies have attracted surging interest in recent years, Supernaw noted, and the collection reflected this with notable pieces from Hibiki and Mars.

“In wine, we have some new, boutique, cult wines from Shafer Vineyards and Diamond Creek Vineyards in Napa Valley that were introduced this year,” she said.

Diamond Creek, California’s first exclusively Cabernet Sauvignon estate, presented its Lake Vineyard Magnum Collection – a DFS exclusive comprising the 2010, 2013 and 2016 vintages. Shafer displayed its Hillside Select collection of vintages that were awarded 100 points by wine authority Robert Parker, who called Hillside Select “one of the world’s most prodigious Cabernet Sauvignons”.

The Château Mouton Rothschild Magnum Collection, a six-vintage magnum set of exceptional vintages from 1988 to 2009.

“Gin continues to really perform well. It’s really more of a complex spirit with botanicals and each one of them has its unique formula,” she said, adding that DFS had secured a single barrel of Japanese gin from Ki Noh Bi, which guests got to taste and buy at the event as part of an extended range of products.

This year also saw a number of brands offering exclusive experiences as part of the product package. Guests who purchase The Macallan 72yo in Lalique – The Genesis Decanter will go on a guided tour of The Macallan Estate and new distillery, a private tasting and whisky-pairing dinner, plus a night’s stay at the brand’s spiritual home, Easter Elchies House.

Also available was a four-day, three-night bespoke travel itinerary from Penfolds – touted as “the Penfolds 5-star experience” that included a dinner at the Penfolds Magill Estate Restaurant hosted by Penfolds Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago.

“More and more customers want to know the stories behind the brand. They want the experience, they want something that money can’t buy and this is exactly what we are offering at Masters of Wines and Spirits,” Supernaw underlined.

Luxury experiences were part of the Masters of Wines and Spirits offer this year, with The Macallan presenting an exclusive tour of its estate with the purchase of The Macallan 72yo in Lalique – The Genesis Decanter (above) and Penfolds offering a stand-alone experience.

“Our ability to present such an assortment of products would not be possible without our longstanding partners, and we have a fantastic partnership with the industry. This is the eighth year of Masters of Wines and Spirits and it’s amazing to see how it has progressed over the years, and we are very lucky to have such a strong partnership with Changi Airport Group.

“This is really the culmination of what DFS has built along with Changi because the collection goes to Changi Airport immediately after the event [where it will be showcased at Terminals 2 and 3 until the end of April –Ed]. So it’s a true testament not only to what we can deliver as partners and operators but also to what Changi can deliver as experiences within the airport.”

DFS is already planning next year’s event, said Supernaw. “It’s a never-ending cycle. We start planning next year’s event the minute we finish this year’s, always thinking about how we can do better, how do we continue to grow and how do we continue to surprise our guests. We have a brilliant and creative marketing team that is constantly looking for new ways to bring the event to life, looking at the theme and showcasing that and differentiating it year on year – but always holding true to what it is.

“It’s about the products, it’s about the brands, it’s about the partnerships with the brands, with the industry and with the airport, and really bringing all that into one venue and an evening where customers can discover the best DFS has to offer.”

Digital partnerships

The importance of DFS’s partnerships extend beyond the event and into the digital sphere, where the retailer is embracing targeted communication to engage with new consumers.

“Everyone in the retail industry is looking at millennials in terms of what they’re looking to purchase, so we absolutely must have a pulse on that. We need to be mindful of what they are looking for, more around the stories and the experience and how we’re embracing digital and social media.

“For this year’s Masters of Wines and Spirits, for example, we have partnered with WeChat – we have a WeChat virtual store that introduces you to the curated collection which you can select and then we’ll contact you about product information. So it’s about the products but also about how we’re communicating to millennials. We are very good partners with WeChat not just within the Masters Series – Masters of Time also did a mini programme – but also collaborate with them on various other opportunities, micro sites and launch programmes.”

“We have also been working a lot on our DFS website to make it a source of information, exploration and education. Over the next few months, you will see continued improvement as we make sure that we are showcasing our products on there so customers can explore and plan their purchases as they’re travelling to any of the DFS Gallerias or airports.”

DFS is also working closely with Changi Airport Group and brand partners to improve its online and in-store experiences.

“We partner with Changi on their iShopChangi platform, which is a big focus for both parties. Our goal is to get 100% of our assortment on there. We are working very closely with them and Changi is redeveloping the platform, so we’re very excited about that to see where we can take that business.”

At its Changi Airport Terminal 2 Arrivals stores, DFS has introduced Pepper, a robotic assistant which recommends wines to customers based on their tastes and preferences.

“This is another example of the innovation that we are working on at Changi. Pepper is stationary within the store at the moment but you can engage with it and ask questions and it can help educate you and steer you towards the right wine selection. We are still in the pilot phase to try and understand how customers are engaging but so far we’ve had a really good response from it.”

[Click on the YouTube video below to see Pepper at work]

In the wines and spirits industry, where many drinks houses have a long and rich heritage, adapting to the digital world can be challenging but rewarding.

“As you look at more millennials being part of the luxury purchasing world, their main way of research and even communication is digital. So being attuned to the different forms of digital media, how customers are engaging with them, and ensuring that they are integrated through the customer journey is paramount for future success. Everyone is catching up to digital, but the legacy houses have to make sure that it connects to their DNA and still supports who they are, while recognising that it’s a great way to communicate about new and existing products, brand stories and just getting customers excited about learning more.”

A focus on provenance: An interview with the Master of Wine 

Château Lafite Rothschild International Brand Ambassador Fabrice Papin spoke to The Moodie Davitt Report’s Melody Ng about Lafite’s partnership with DFS, the wine culture in Asia and how the wine category has evolved in travel retail.

As reported, this year’s Masters of Wines and Spirits offered a series of masterclasses helmed by the four category masters.

The Moodie Davitt Report was privileged to attend ‘Masters of Wine’, presented by Château Lafite Rothschild International Brand Ambassador Fabrice Papin, who is also the International Sales Manager of Travel Retail & Duty Free at Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite).

The ‘Masters of Wine’ masterclass, led by Lafite’s Fabrice Papin, took guests through a full-range tasting of different wines from the estates of Domaines Barons de Rothschild.
‘Masters of Malt’, hosted by The Macallan Whisky Maker Sarah Burgess, saw guests taste premium products such as The Macallan Enigma and The Macallan M Decanter.
‘Masters of Blending’, led by Diageo Global Whisky Master Ewan Gunn, saw guests taste Caol Ila 35yo, Port Ellen 39yo and Johnnie Walker Blue Ghost and Rare.
‘Masters of Cocktails’, hosted by award-winning Japanese mixologist Hidetsugu Ueno, explored Japanese craft of spirits and included a cocktail-making session featuring whisky, sake and gin.

As one of the world’s pre-eminent winemakers, Lafite has carved a strong and steady presence at Masters of Wines and Spirits. This year’s event saw Lafite presenting its broadest range of products and first-ever masterclass, which was met with an overwhelming response.

Anchoring the product line-up in the dedicated Lafite space was the Château Lafite Rothschild Double Magnum collection, comprising vintages from 1988, 1998 and 2008. Specially created in large formats for DFS, only four sets are available at S$30,000 each.

The 1988 vintage is described as “a classic expression of Lafite”, concentrated with focused flavours and huge tannins. The 1998 vintage, a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot, has aromas of sandalwood and black pepper, with touches of chargrill, dried herbs and mincemeat piece. The 2008 vintage, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, has aromas of unsmoked cigar tobacco, lead pencil shavings, earth and cedar.

The Château Lafite Rothschild Double Magnum collection, specially created for DFS.

“The DFS team came to meet us in Bordeaux and we discussed the format of the event: what we were going to do and how we can make it special. They asked, ‘what do you have for us?’ and we said ‘nothing much’. We challenged them and they challenged us, so we looked in our cellars to see what would make sense to showcase to fine wine consumers and people who are passionate about wine and are willing to learn.

“These wines are very special: they came direct from the cellars, and we do not sell them anywhere – until today at the event. But DFS wanted something extra, so on top of the large formats from Lafite (Château Lafite Rothschild 1988 was also available in a Magnum size), we decided to offer a selection of wines from the different estates we own in Bordeaux – an opportunity to go on a tour of our châteaux.”

Besides Château Lafite Rothschild, the selection also included Château Lafite Rothschild’s second label wine Carruades de Lafite 2010, Château Duhart-Milon 2008 and Château L’Evangile 2008.

These wines were part of the tasting line-up that Papin’s masterclass were privileged to try, along with Château Lafite Rothschild 2008 as well as younger, second label wines from Château Duhart-Milon (Moulin de Duhart 2015) and Château L’Evangile (Blason de L’Evangile 2015).

The dedicated Lafite room at Masters of Wines and Spirits highlighted the pinnacle of the group’s wines.

The Lafite room all set up for the brand’s first masterclass.
The selection of wines in the masterclass offered an opportunity to tour the different châteaux owned by Domaines Barons de Rothschild. (Photo: Melody Ng)

“Different wines, different styles, different prices – always made with the same precision,” he underlined. “So the selection goes from affordable luxury to ultimate wines that you cannot find anywhere, and I think that is the power of Masters of Wines and Spirits.”

This was Papin’s second time attending the Masters of Wines and Spirits, the first being 2014 when he joined Lafite, and underlined it as one of the key events in Lafite’s calendar. “This is my only trip in Asia this year because we thought it would be one of the best events to be a part of. It is one of the only occasions in our industry where we have direct contact with our consumers.

“At Lafite, our job is to make the best wine possible and then find the best possible partner to sell on our behalf. But we don’t sell direct – we don’t have this expertise. Our expertise is producing fine wine and finding the right partner. We are very selective with who we work with and DFS has the expertise in storing the wine properly, providing the right retail environment with nice displays,” he said.

Papin commended DFS for the high expectations of its partners, which pushes both parties to be reach new standards. “DFS is very demanding in their selection, which we like because we are also very demanding with ourselves to make the best wine possible – this is part of why we are successful. They work hard for their clients and their loyalty members, giving them access to very special events such as this. The way we see them working with us – being challenging and demanding – shows the level of expertise they have in their field which is very key for us.”

“DFS is very demanding in their selection, which we like because we are also very demanding with ourselves to make the best wine possible,” said Fabrice Papin.

Born in France into a family of winemakers with vineyards in Bordeaux and Cognac, Papin grew up in the wine-making business. He also spent 13 years in Asia and the Middle East working for a number of fine wines and spirits companies. He noted the rise of the category in travel retail in recent years, not just at the Masters of the Wines and Spirits (the event was expanded to include wine in 2013), but also in the Asia region.

“The wine category in travel retail a few years ago was tiny; it was mainly spirits. The offering was pretty basic: I remember the good old days when a 1-litre bottle of Cognac in travel retail was the same price as a bottle of 70cl in the domestic market. That was basically it. Things are different now: the buying teams are much more creative and much more demanding in terms of quality.

“Now the wine category takes up more space in the retail environment than before. There is a wider range, with more approachable and entry-level wines that are still extremely well made. So we have your good-quality wines which you can drink every day, as well as your super trooper fine wines that you cannot find anywhere else. The most important thing for me is the increased focus on provenance.

“Previously, travel retail was only a small part of the business, so operators were sourcing from different people, but now there is a more direct relationship between the winemakers and operators. There was no travel retail manager before – I am the first one for Lafite, because we want to be sure that we do the right thing on our side.

“What has surprised me the most is the passion, especially in Asia, for Lafite,” said Fabrice Papin.

“What has surprised me the most is the huge passion, especially in Asia, for Lafite. When you work hard to make very special wines, it’s a good feeling when consumers or wine lovers pay attention and pay tribute to the hard work behind it. It gives us the energy, the motivation to always do better.

“I’m amazed by how much time and effort people put into wine, even just by coming to the event. We would like to say thank you to all our consumers and supporters for taking time out of their weekend to meet us and pay tribute to the hard work and selection of DFS.

“People here have so much passion for wine. They are craving for knowledge – the masterclass was overbooked, for example. With the response, I think we could have done ten masterclasses! I feel very privileged and very happy, I have the best job in the world.

“My parents are winemakers, and I entered the business the day I was born – I had no choice. But I didn’t realise when I was a kid working in the vineyards that there would so much passion today for the world of wine and fine wine. So many times, people have told us that they’d love to come and visit our vineyards.

“As winemakers, we are farmers who farm grapes – and when I was younger I used to wonder: ‘Is there anything sexy about that?’ I didn’t think people would want to come because to me it’s a working environment but now people do come and they say ‘wow’.

“Another amazing thing is the respect people have for wine. In the last 15 to 20 years, I have seen more and more people taking the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) courses, willing to learn. Sometimes we see people coming to harvest wine which is very hard – and they do it for their own pleasure. I studied wine and winemaking and have a master’s degree in wine so for me it was more about work. I still loved it because it was my passion and what I was born into, but to see people reading books, willing to come and learn and asking questions, it’s pretty amazing.”

He added: “People here are very excited to see and taste. When you’re in Bordeaux or Europe you are surrounded by vineyards and wine, but here in Asia there is a bit more sparkle in people’s eyes when they taste great wines. Their facial expressions and the pleasure they show, and high level of appreciation they have for the wines.

“In Singapore there is a lot more attention to things like having the proper wine glass and buying from the right source, maybe because you can find wines from many different places. They need more confidence in where they buy and are more selective, whereas in France they don’t really care. Here, we see more and more people buying from DFS because they know and should trust DFS for their top notch provenance. As a consumer, what I like about shopping at DFS is that even the more approachable wines are good. Our Lafite logo, as we like to say, is a stamp of quality and provenance, and I see DFS’s logo – and as our partner – as being the same.”

*Footnote: The Moodie Davitt Report was on location at Masters of Wines and Spirits 2019 – check out our Instagram post here and our Story Highlight ‘MOWS 2019’ here.

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