Last month, German eyewear specialist Rodenstock staged a glamorous fashion show at the Deutsches Museum in Munich. While the clothes on the catwalk were compelling, most of the attention fell on the new-season opticals and sunglasses that added finishing touches to each outfit.
The annual show, explained Rodenstock, reflects the increasing importance of eyewear as a fashion statement in its own right. This idea was confirmed by the strong attendance, which included many Munich celebrities and influencers, fans and friends of the brand plus the media (including The Moodie Davitt Report).
Active in over 80 countries, Rodenstock is one of the world’s largest eyewear specialists. It holds licences for German brands Porsche Design and Bogner as well as producing collections under its own name.
While Porsche Design has become a familiar sight in travel retail, the Rodenstock brand does not currently have a presence in the channel. However, speaking to The Moodie Davitt Report after the catwalk show, Rodenstock Director Global Retail & Optical Key Accounts Petra Eckhardt-Köstler explains that 2019 will be the year this changes.
“Building travel retail distribution is a natural progression for Rodenstock.”
“Travel retail is very important for us,” she says. “Rodenstock is seeing excellent growth outside its core European markets, including in the Americas, Asia, the Middle East and Eastern Europe.
“Building travel retail distribution alongside this is a natural progression. We see potential in all distribution channels: eyewear multi-brand duty free stores, airport shops, downtown and border, inflight and cruise.”
Eyewear, continues Eckhardt-Köstler, remains a key category in travel retail. “While it has been a challenging time for many luxury brands recently, particularly with the softening of the Chinese market, we see that for accessories such as sunglasses the demand is still there.
“The sunglasses category remains a buoyant sector within travel retail, and sunglasses are currently a category that retailers are prepared to invest in, for sure,” she says. “We do think, however, that some could be more open to new brands coming into the mix.”
“Since we came into travel retail three years ago, we have increased our business by double digits every year.”
For Eckhardt-Köstler, a balanced offer covering all price points is the key to success in the eyewear category. “Travelling consumers represent a very broad demographic with varying budgets and it’s important that all these needs are met.
“Obviously this needs to be in line with the passenger profile through the airport too, but the offer should still be representative. This is certainly one reason why we believe Rodenstock has good potential within the travel retail industry.”
While Eckhardt-Köstler says that Porsche Design will remain the flagship brand in travel retail, Rodenstock is a highly relevant addition to the channel. Porsche Design, she says, has found a niche offering premium men’s styles in a market where women’s styles are more prevalent. The Rodenstock brand extends the company’s portfolio, offering women’s styles and a range of readers. The latter will be one of the first collections to launch in travel retail.
“Together, the Porsche Design and Rodenstock brands are the epitome of quality, style and design, enabling travel retailers to offer a rounded sunglasses offer to consumers.”
Having successfully launched Porsche Design in travel retail, the Rodenstock team already has good idea of how to launch its eponymous brand.
In 2019, the Rodenstock brand will join Porsche Design with a presence at the major shows, beginning with Orlando and Singapore in the first half. “We will be telling the Rodenstock story on our stands and will continue to look for opportunities that will help us to build awareness of the Rodenstock offer with key stakeholders,” explains Eckhardt-Köstler.
Investment, she continues, is critical. In industry events and developing partnerships, yes, but also in customer experience, from ensuring the best displays and equipment to frequent staff training. Promotions and campaigns (which increasingly involve social media) have also been a crucial part of the Porsche Design travel retail strategy.
This investment, says Eckhardt-Köstler, has absolutely paid off. “Since we came into travel retail three years ago, we have increased our business by double digits every year.”
One campaign Eckhardt-Köstler highlights ran alongside MEADFA last year, in partnership with Beirut Duty Free. Delegates at the event were given a scratch card and were in with the chance of winning one of 300 pairs of Porsche Design sunglasses.
“The sunglasses shop at Beirut Duty Free is an excellent example of how to showcase the category in the very best way so it was the perfect location for this activity,” she says.
“As a promotion, it was designed to show retailers how Rodenstock is willing to support its travel retail business to create a positive environment for the consumers,” she explains, adding that the success and positive feedback exceeded expectations.
“We are looking into the potential for travel retail-exclusive models for both Porsche Design and Rodenstock. We see definite opportunity here, with exclusive colourways and finishes perhaps the most likely route.”
In terms of customer-facing promotions, Eckhardt-Köstler names the Porsche Design Eyewear 40th anniversary campaign as one of its greatest travel retail successes.
A limited edition of the brand’s famous P’8478 sunglasses was created and available in global travel retail in a special travel box. “It created buzz and fantastic sales results,” she says.
Limited editions and the like, adds Eckhardt-Köstler, are a serious consideration for Rodenstock. “We are looking into the potential for travel retail-exclusive models for both Porsche Design and Rodenstock. We see definite opportunity here, with exclusive colourways and finishes perhaps the most likely route.”
The overall plan for Rodenstock, says Eckhardt-Köstler, is to show retailers just what the brand can bring to travel retail: “a must-stock assortment supported by exceptional customer service and support”. This includes extensive staff training, retail promotions – including channel-specific programmes, and multi-platform promotional campaigns.
She concludes by citing a firm goal: “Our aim is to be listed by the top ten retailers within the next three years.”
A big year for Porsche Design Eyewear 2018 saw notable expansion for Porsche Design Eyewear in travel retail. “We now enjoy distribution for Porsche Design with key retailer groups globally, although there is still plenty of room for growth,” explains Eckhardt-Köstler. “We have a particularly strong relationship with Dufry, Bahrain Duty Free, PAC Beirut Duty Free, China Duty Free Group, Duty Free Partners, Freckle, Kappé and Parklane, and are launching at Hudson US.  “Our distribution is very sound in EMEA and taking off in the Caribbean and, following an excellent week at the TFWA World Exhibition last year, we expect significant growth in North America and Asia Pacific. We also have good representation in Latin America through our local team. “We are listed in around 100 airports, where we are seeing our business improve year on year. Alongside airports, we are developing our business with downtown shops in Asia and see a great deal of opportunity with the cruise sector, where we are making encouraging inroads. We’re seeing fantastic sell-through wherever we are listed.” |
